There are a lot of restaurants in Montpellier and I haven’t been to all of them, but here’s some of my favourites. This list will be added to, if only as a good excuse to eat my way around the whole town.
(Look out for the green ‘v’, this means there are veggie options on the menu.)
Au Bonheur des Tartes v
The food at Au Bonheur des Tartes is hearty. The last time I came here for lunch I was still full at dinner-time. The lunch menu centres around the restaurant’s delicious tarts accompanied by a huge salad of chickpeas, vegetables and lentils. You can vary this and replace the tart with something else, like foie gras or goat’s cheese. And if you’ve room for a dessert, the sweet tarts are tasty too. In the evening the menu focuses more on the regional cuisine of southwest France, particularly duck and sausage dishes. The restaurant itself is cosy with cute, quirky decor, but it’s very popular so make sure you book in advance. Or nip in at opening time to see if they can fit you in for the second service.
Where and when: 4 Rue du Trésorier de la Bourse. Open Tuesday to Saturday lunchtimes. Thursday and Friday evenings, 8pm to 10.30pm; Saturday evenings, 8pm to 11pm.
International Loulou
This cosy restaurant-cum-deli is tucked into one of Montpellier’s best streets for food and wine, just a stone’s throw from the bi-weekly market at Les Arceaux’s aqueduct. The menu changes daily and encompasses food from everywhere – traditional French fare to Asian-inspired dishes. And there’s always something very delicious for dessert. They serve a very good ‘full-monty’ Sunday brunch, which makes it a perfect place to head before or after a trip to the Sunday antiques market at Promenade du Peyrou.
L’episode v
Imagine you’ve been invited to a friend’s seriously cool, retro house for dinner. That’s what L’episode feels like. The restaurant is kitted out like a 1950s living room complete with formica sideboards, sleek veneered chairs and gorgeous vintage fabric. The food looks groovy too, and tastes delicious. The imaginative menu changes each month to include seasonal organic products, mostly bought from the market in Les Arceaux, or the organic food shop nearby. The terrace at the back is very pretty for when it’s warm enough to eat outside.
Tripti Kulai v
In Bengali, Tripti Kulai means ‘plentiful nest’ and the idea behind this vegetarian restaurant is to help you feel good. The food is healthy and organic, and they haven’t forgotten the flavour. There’s always a tart or dish of the day served with a generous salad of vegetables and grains. Omelettes, gratin and polenta cake are also on the menu, as well as some very nice desserts. In the afternoon the restaurant becomes a salon de thé, specialising in Indian and yogi teas. It’s all served to a packed restaurant by followers of the spiritual leader, Sri Chimnoy.
Chez Boris
Chez Boris specialises in beef, so if you love a good steak this is where to come. Choose your cut, choose your sauce and voilà… delicious. As well as the steaks and burgers, there’s other stuff on the menu, including pot-au-feu, a fish dish and an endive stew. Oh and the fries are pretty good too.
Comptoir de l’Arc
If, heavens alive, you might want to eat outside the usual French lunchtime slot of 12 to 2, this place is perfect. It’s open every day, all day, until late in the evening and is pretty much always full. The menu is varied and every time I’ve eaten here I’ve enjoyed the meal. As well as the food, it’s also popular for its interesting rums and cocktails. You’ll find it in Place de la Canorgue, one of the most beautiful squares in Montpellier.
Sisters’ Café v
I really like this restaurant, not only for the food, but for the friendly service. Inside it’s warm and comfortable and on a sunny day its large shady terrace by the Saint Roch church is a lovely place to sit. The food is tasty, varied and healthy, and it’s hard to pass up one of the delicious crumbles and tarts laid out on the dessert table. It’s one of the few restaurants in town that’s open all day and is a good option for an afternoon coffee and cake.
La Kitchenette v
This one’s kitsch, eclectic decor is as delicious as it’s food. It’s bright and friendly with a varied menu that mixes regional food and Eastern-influenced dishes. Vegetarian’s will be happy as there’s plenty of non-meat options and prices are reasonable too.
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