Just below one of Herault’s most popular swimming spots, Lac Salagou is a little village called Mourèze. You’ll know when you’re there as the windy road from Clermont d’Herault straightens out and the forests either side make way for giant dolomite rock formations. This lunar landscape is know as the Cirque de Mourèze and can be accessed on foot from the village. The huge rocks jut out into the air and dominate the skyline around the commune. If you take a walk into the steep, narrow lanes that circle the village’s presbyterean church the Cirque beyond forms a startling contrast to the pretty stone houses covered in climbing plants and colourful flowerpots. It’s a lovely place to come for a quiet stroll and a spot of lunch, but if you’re feeling more active follow the yellow signs to take a hike in to the cirque.
What to do and see
Walk in the Cirque de Mourèze: There are plenty of signs from the village that will point you in the right direction for a circuit through the dolomitic formations of the Cirque de Mourèze. You’ll need good walking shoes and as the landscape is rocky and unshaded it’s best to go outside of the hot summer months, or early morning before it gets too warm.
Visit Parc de Courtinals: Just before you enter the village there’s a little sign pointing to a tiny restaurant, Buvette Gourmande des Courtinals, which sits next to the site of a neolithic settlement. Some steps lead up to a clearing surrounded by steep rocks where archeologists have found evidence of cave dwellings from -2500 BC to -300 BC. There’s a small wooden stage in the clearing where they hold concerts for the annual Festival de Mourèze in August. I imagine it’s a fantastic place to watch live music on a warm summer evening.
Where to eat
There are two eateries in the village. One is the little place I mentioned earlier, Buvette Gourmande des Courtinals, which serves Mediterranean specialities on it’s small, but pretty terrace beside the Parc de Courtinals. Mains start from €10-12.
On the other side of the road is Chez Max-Eva where you can enjoy lunch, dinner (Friday and Saturday evenings), or just an ice cream on the shaded terrace. The menu includes traditional grilled meat and fish, tapas and pizzas.
Where to stay
Outside the village is Auberge de Val Mourèze, a small hotel with a high quality restaurant, 18 modern-designed rooms and a swimming pool.
In a quiet village about 20 minutes away is a lovely guesthouse, Liouty. Read about it here.
Montpellier and more 