Tucked into the side of a ravine, between the Verdus stream and the gorges of the Herault river is the beautiful medieval village of St-Guilhem-le-Désert. It’s been classified as one of the ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’ and is a lovely place to visit. You’ll find it 45-minutes north west of Montpellier next to the village of St-Jean-de-Fos. As you drive through nearby Aniane and take the bend at the Pont du Diable the gentle vineyards disappear to reveal a deep rocky gorge shot through with the gushing waters of the Herault. A little further along is St-Guilhem, its stone houses perching above the gorge and surrounded by forested cliffs.
Take the road to the left of the village until you find the car park at the top. From here you can walk into the pretty square, Place de la Liberté, where many visitors stop to enjoy lunch or a drink before heading off into the tiny cobbled roads behind. The square is shaded by a 150-year-old plain tree, which almost hides Abbaye de Gellone in the corner.
It’s worth nipping into the abbey while you’re here to admire its grand architecture, cross-shaped windows and wide, attractive apse. The church once held the remains of Saint Guilhem, a cousin of Charlemagne who renounced his worldly goods and became a hermit here in the 9th century. It is believed he brought back three pieces of the original Cross from Rome to the Languedoc. He was canonised shortly after his death and soon St-Guilhem became a stop-off for pilgrims on their way to Compostela.
At the far end of the square you can take either of the roads that lead up into the village’s tiny lanes of medieval houses with pretty hidden courtyards. Among these are a number of craftshops, crêperies and tea rooms. Look out for the Musée Village d’Antan (Museum of the Olden Days) where you’ll find small figurines of villagers, buildings and animals, intricately created by hand.
At the bottom of the village is the tourist office, where you can buy a couple of walking guides for a euro each. These give details of two hiking trails (one medium and one difficult) from St-Guilhem into the surrounding countryside.
You might want to combine your trip here with a visit to La Grottes de Clamouse, or the Pont du Diable nearby.
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